Rurrenabaque and the Pampas

The jumbo jet to Rurre

The flight from La Paz to Rurrenabaque was on board a tiny 19 seater twin prop plane. The flight was only 40 minutes long, compared to the alternative bus journey, which was a bone shaking 24 hours along a windy, dusty road! In the interest of sanity we decided to go for the faster and far more expensive option. The flight was awful, it seemed like even small clouds were enough to make the tiny plane shudder with fear. I tried my best to read some restaurant reviews that were in the back of the seat in front of me, but even these weren't enough to stop me from leaving fingernail marks in the seat cover!

Rurrenabaque international airport

It was with great relief that we touched down on the dirt runway. The airport at Rurrenabaque was no more than a glorified shed, with a total of 5 people working there in various roles. Rurrenabaque is a nice little jungle town with wide avenues, set right on the Beni river. Everyone drives around on motorbikes (even the taximen or “mototaxis”). We had decided to do a Pampas tour, which is similar to a jungle savannah. The Pampas is a wide green area that floods completely during the rainy season. However in the dry season it is incredibly lush and abundant with wildlife. We checked into a nice little hotel and booked the tour for the following day with Indigena tours, having heard good reviews about them.

Downtown Rurre

Day 1

The first part of the trip was a 3 hour trip down a very bumpy dirt road in a very smelly 4x4. We then had some lunch in Santa Rosa and started to get to know the rest of our group, a guy from Germany, another from Australia and a Polish couple.

Our transport for the next 3 days

Next we entered the national park where we would begin the tour. Our laid back guide Antonio introduced himself and everyone boarded the narrow boat to take us down the river. Immediately we began to see wildlife, lots of tortoises, crocodiles and caiman. The craziest looking animals were capiwaras (which were like huge guinea pigs, as big as baby hippos), we also spotted monkeys, dolphins and loads of different species of birds. Every time you turned your head there was more wildlife, it was incredible. 

After a few hours we reached the lodge which would be our base for two nights. The setting was lovely, on the banks of the river surrounded by trees and with the incessant sound of the jungle all around. The huts were pretty comfortable, but pretty open so mozzie nets were a necessity! On arrival there was popcorn and coffee and afterwards we walked to a nearby lookout point for a few beers and to watch the sunset. Then it was back to the lodge for dinner and a game of cards before heading to bed underneath the mozzie nets.`

Day 2

After an early start and some breakfast, we donned the wellies and made our way towards the pampas in search of snakes. After about an hour walking we reached a marshy area covered with pink flowers, and Martin spotted something in the water. Sure enough it was a decent sized anaconda. Our guide didn't disturb it too much, but enough for us to get some decent pictures.

Anaconda

Some pampas flowers

On our way back to the lodge we stopped for water in a shaded wooded area (where Cora got eaten alive by mosquitoes!). The polish guy saw a bird landing nearby and went to investigate, the bird had flown away but what was left was even more interesting. He had just interrupted an eagle attacking a rattle snake. There was snake blood everywhere and the poor snake was not in great shape. Our guide Antonio told us that the snake was very poisonous and its venom could kill a person in a few hours.

My tiny catfish

Having spotted 2 snakes and feeling proud of ourselves, we made our way back to camp for lunch. Later that day we went fishing for piranhas, only our guide managed to catch one however. Cora and I both managed some very small catfish. All thrown back in of course! That evening it was back to the lookout point for some beers and a game of volleyball, followed by dinner back at the lodge. We also went on the boat that night to look for caiman, easily spotted at night as their eyes glow red in the torchlight. The boat trip at night was a little eerie but the night sky was full of stars and it was quite peaceful floating down the river with the motor off.

Twilight in the jungle

Day 3

In the morning we went to go swimming with the famous pink dolphins. The area where the dolphins lived was full of bird sh*t, so Cora decided against jumping in. I wasn't as smart, so jumped right into the crocodile invested waters where we had fished for piranhas the day before.

Swimming with dolphins (honestly!)

The dolphins were playful enough, but I didn't really enjoy it too much, as I was more worried about the state of the water so got out soon after. The polish girl was actually bitten by one of the dolphins and had the marks to prove it! After the swim we returned to camp for lunch and to pack up our things. I helped myself to a much needed shower after that dirty swim. Then it was a very fast trip back up the river to where we had started from 2 days earlier, into another rickety jeep and back along the bumpy dirt road. That night we met with the rest of the group for a couple of drinks.

The next day was spent relaxing in Rurrenabaque, before flying back to La Paz the following day. My heart was in my mouth for the whole flight, which was much worse the second time around.