La Paz

Our fist view of this amazing city which lies practically in the clouds (3.6km above sea level) was on the bus from Copacobana, as we drove through the teeming subarb of El Alto. El Alto is perched on a ledge overlooking the valley and downtown area of La Paz. The streets were heaving with street sellers and crowds going about their daily business and the traffic was utterly mental, so kudos to the bus driver for navigating his way though. Suddenly we rounded a corner and there was a collective gasp as everyone saw for the first time the city sprawled below, with snowcapped peaks majestic in the distance.

La Paz, evening sun

Exploring the city is nice and easy with a main thoroughfare cutting through the centre and the side streets rising up on each side from this. Anytime we got lost the trick was to just go downhill!

Downtown area

My most lasting memory of our time in La Paz was a tour we took with a company called Banjo tours, ran by the very lovely Ben. He took us under the skin of the city and to some places that we would never find ourselves. One of these places was a warehouse where coca leaves are traded, the only place in Bolivia where you can buy as much coca as you wish, no questions asked. (We had to buy a small amount to avoid any hassle.) Once inside the grassy dry smell of coca was intoxicating, and there was just room upon room of bags of the green leaf. The culture of chewing coca is unavoidable in the Andean countries, the indigenous people chew it constantly to increase energy and stave off feelings of tiredness and hunger. I’ve tried it and all I got was a numb mouth and the need to spit out a gloopy green goo constantly, yuck!

Coca is so contentious because of course with a few chemicals and a bit of spare time, you can turn it into its less legal derivative – cocaine. The US (highest consumer of cocaine in the world) has in the past waged war on coca production in Bolivia by sending in the DEA to try and eradicate its growth, and introduce new crops into the Bolivian countryside. The problem is that coca is valuable and the livelihood of many rural farmers depends on it. This led to a lot of anti US sentiment and eventually (with the election of a former coca grower as president) the expulsion of the DEA. Coca is often given in offerings to the Pachamama (mother earth) and is a fundamental part of life in the crazy heights of the Andes. It also genuinely is an ingredient in Coca Cola! I think it remains to be seen how the issue will be resolved, but a trip to Bolivia and Peru would not be complete without understanding what coca means to most that live here and of course a sampling of the Inca’s green gold!

Back to the tour, another stop was up in El Alto, where there is a huge market of fruit vegetables and meat. We gave away some of our coca leaves to make some new friends and wandered through the witches market, llama foetuses hanging in every stall (these are usually put in the foundations of a new house as an offering to the Pachamama).

Little lady selling her wares

Creepy stuff

We turned a corner and came to a street of little shacks, each burning small fires outside (more offerings to good old PM). These were the fortune tellers, special people, usually men, who drink a lot of practically pure alcohol and can read the coca leaves for a small fee (less than €1). Sceptical? Not at all! We went in to a small hut where a wizened ancient old man laid out the leaves and told us everything was good, aside from the fact that I get angry too often (totally untrue, ahem).

This guy is actually only 42..

Without a lot of planning, we ended up staying seven nights in La Paz, five before Rurrenabaque and two after. It’s a dusty polluted city, but it has a certain unique charm, resilience and beauty and was well worth the visit.   

PS We stayed in the Wild Rover and for those in the know, probably the less said about this the better!

Lago Titicaca

We took a sightseeing bus down from Cusco to Puno with some new Australian friends from the Inca trail. There were a few stops en route to visit archaeological sites (and most importantly to have lunch!). More stunning Andean scenery flew by, piercing blue sky, yellow grass and small herds of cattle and llama herded usually by a lone person. The landscape was vast, desolate and amazing.

Amazeballs

Our first views of the lake were of it glistening appealingly in the evening sun. Titicaca in Quechua means Puma stone and its renown stems from being the highest navigable lake in the world. And it truly is huge (8400 sq km!) and high (3800m above sea level!), and pretty darn impressive.

We had a couple of nice nights out in Puno town which is quite lively and then planned to visit some of the islands on the lake and stay a night there.

The adventure began with an early morning pick up and a quick boat ride out to the Uros, which are floating islands just off the Puno coast. The islands are made of reeds as are all the houses on them and a few hundred Aymara speaking people live spread over about 50 islands. However there is no remnant of an authentic life on the islands and it seems that everything done is for the benefit of tourists. It’s a bit of a quandary really, because I doubt the islands could survive without the money tourism brings yet there is nothing genuine about them when they exist solely to pander to foreigners. In any case the visit was a novelty, and it was interesting to learn how the islands were constructed.

One of the many floating islands

After declining over and over to buy any “handmade” goods (sorry little ladies), we boarded the boat again bound for Amantani, our base for the night. The island reminded me of the Aran islands, little stone walls, no cars and a ferocious wind! Everyone was introduced to their “yomama” who would host them for the night. 

The yomama's line up to meet their charges for the night

Ours was called Segundina and like all the other women she was TINY (blame the altitude), dressed in traditional dress and spinning wool constantly. Her little house was made of mud brick and lunch (which Damien barely managed to get through) consisted of lots of Yuka (Andean potato, looks a bit like a shrivelled carrot). 

Sunset

Later on we played a football match against the locals (Damien shines again!) and had a little hike to watch the sunset. We also visited a school where I tried to teach a little girl English and she to teach me Spanish! After dinner we were dressed in traditional garb and all trundled off to a small fiesta in the local hall. Everyone danced and it was quite sweet if a little naff.

Damo about to get his groove on..

After a cosy sleep under about 15 blankets in Segundina’s house, we said goodbye and boarded the boat to Taquile. It was a nice little experience staying locally and my limited Spanish allowed me to have some basic conversations with our hosts. Again we were experiencing a simple way of life in an isolated community similar in some ways to the Colca canyon.

Waiting for the boat..

The boat trip over to the next island was a nightmare to those prone to sea sickness. Luckily our boat seemed fairly immune and everyone arrived in one piece. Taquile seemed similar to Amanani, with the Quechua speaking islanders wearing traditional dress, however handicrafts are a speciality here and there was a cooperative shop displaying the local wares. We went for a walk and discovered a school where all the teenage pupils were dressed in the traditional garb. “Teaching them how to be a tourist attraction” Damien cynically remarked, probably not too far from the truth!

We spent a night more in Puno before boarding a bus to cross the border into Bolivia and the lakeside town of Copacobana. Best bit of the journey, when our bus stopped and it and the passengers crossed the lake – separately!

Please don't sink!

The little town of Copacobana is bright, sunny and touristy and we settled in getting used to the Bolivian currency (Bolivianos) and planned a day trip out to Isla del Sol. Damien also took the time to teach me how to play chess, and has beaten me in about 95% of all games since. NOT HAPPY!! 

Competitive? Moi?

Isla del Sol was hailed as the birthplace of the sun god in Inca lore and was an easy boat ride from the shore. The island is quite beautiful with sandy little bays and we walked the length of it, enjoying the views. The industrious locals charge you not once, not twice but three separate times along the walk! It totals about a fiver so not exactly breaking the bank, but there was an almost Father Ted like aspect to the whole thing!

Really?? €5??!!!

On reaching the town beside the port we had a well earned lunch, and took the boat back to Copacobana. 

Lunchtime view, probably worth it

Next it's on to the craziness of La Paz!

Cusco and the Inca Trail

The bus trip from Arequipa to Cusco was pretty horrendous, we were sitting right beside the engine so could hear it revving up all night long, on the plus side though we couldn't witness all the outrageous overtaking manoeuvres. We arrived tired to our hostel (Ecopackers) at 5.30am in the morning. With no beds available the only option was to hit the couch and watched some old episodes of Friends to pass the time. Later on we treated ourselves to a scrumptious breakfast and after finally checking into our room at around 2pm set off to explore the city for the rest of the day.

Plaza del Armas Cusco

Cusco is a lovely city, lots of cobblestone streets and plazas with a good mix of locals and tourists. It was the original capital of Peru when the Incas were in charge, but that honour was passed to Lima with the arrival of the Spanish, a shame in my opinion. We signed up for a free walking tour the next day, which was pretty good, as we ended up sampling a lot of local food and drink and seeing parts of town we wouldn't normally have gone to. The tour walked up to San Blas where we got a panoramic view of the city. On the way there we saw a woman carrying a little guinea pig in her arms, no doubt for the slaughter!

Guinea Pig anyone?

The night before the Inca Trail, we had a briefing in the Llama Path offices at 7.30pm, so we had some dinner in an Irish pub beforehand and then heard the details for the next 4 days. We met our guide Marco and were introduced to our group, 4 Aussies, 2 Brits and a Texan lady. Everyone was given small satchels that we could fill for the porters to carry the next day. Excitement abound, we went back to the hostel and packed up before having a couple of drinks in the bar which had a really good band playing.

Day 1

We got down to the square the next morning at 4.30am and were clapped onto the bus by the red army of porters in the back seat (sarcastically I think!). There were 13 porters with us in total, plus 1 chef and the head porter.

Our "Red Army" of porters

After a few hours of driving and a short breakfast stop we arrived at km82, from where we would start the 46km walk to Machu Picchu. This was our first chance to see how much work the porters were going to do for us. Each of them packed their backpacks with everything we would need for the next 4 days, and I mean everything! All we had to carry with us was our sun cream and a bottle of water, everything else was up to the porters.

Ready to go!

The dining tent

We set off around 9am after some pictures at the trail start point. The going was easy, and we quickly got into the countryside, with rolling hills all around and a good view of the river below. Our first glimpse of an Incan ruin was from a hilltop after a couple of hours walking. The site was impressive, but our guide Marco was quick to move on towards the lunch stop. Upon reaching the lunch stop, we saw that the porters had already arrived and set up our little dining tent complete with fully set table. We were greeted with a welcome drink and individual hot water bowels to wash in. The lunch was delicious as were all meals on the trip. The chef cooked everything on one small gas stove which was quite an incredible feat. 

After lunch we set off towards our base camp for the night, the views along the way were amazing, with vast mountains interlocking each other and rays of sunshine breaking through. We arrived to the campsite at 5pm and the porters had all the tents set up and our belongings already inside. We sat down for “happy hour” of hot chocolate and popcorn and dinner arrived soon after. The food again was great, and after a bit of craic with the group we all went off to bed in our tents in pitch darkness.

Tent alley

Day 2 – “The Gringo Killer”

We were awoken by our porters with offerings of coca tea and hot water to wash in. It was very cold, so we donned hats and fleeces and sat down for breakfast of fruit and pancakes. The group set off at around 7am on what would be our hardest day. The early part of the morning was spent climbing towards the first rest point from where the views were incredible. Ice capped mountains all around, we took a few minutes to have a rest and take it all in. 

A well deserved break..

Next came the hardest part of the day, a tough climb up to Dead Woman’s Pass. I treated myself to a bottle of coke from a local vender which made all the difference! The top of the pass at 4200m was our highest point of the trek, and the 90min climb was very tough in the strong sun. 

The view from Dead Woman's Pass

view from the top of the second ascent

After Dead Woman’s it was a series of steps down to the first campsite for lunch. Everyone availed of a siesta after lunch as we still had at least 4 hours of hiking afterwards. There was another tough climb and then a descent, and unfortunately the rain started which dampened our spirits a bit. We caught a glimpse of our base camp from the next windswept Incan ruin that we visited. The group was shattered when we got to camp, and after dinner it was straight to bed with no problem sleeping.

Day 3

Day 3 was a short enough day, as we only needed to hike until lunchtime due to covering so much ground the day before. The walk again was spectacular as we were now broaching Peru’s piece of Amazon. The trail wound around the mountain side and at one stage there were great views on both sides of us as we were literally right on the top of a mountain. Next it was a tough descent down 3000 steps, which was pretty hard on the knees, stopping at a pretty impressive Incan ruin along the way. We reached camp early and I availed of the freezing cold showers.

The ruin of Sayaqmarka

The Ruin of Winay Wanya

After lunch we visited Winay Wanya, the most impressive ruin so far (until the next day of course), but it was raining so we couldn't stay too long. The site consists of hundreds of rows of the iconic terraces that were used to farm the steep land. Later on happy hour and dinner were excellent as usual, and the chef even baked us a cake!! No idea how he did it. Afterwards we presented our tips to the porters and chef for all their hard work. It was time for bed early as it was a very early start the next day, 3.30am!

Day 4

We were woken by the porters and skipped breakfast so that we could be the first group in the queue to enter the final part of the trek. The plan worked and when the gate opened at 5.30am, the mad dash to the sun gate (a platform overlooking Machu Picchu) began. 

We really wanted to be the first people to see the site in the breaking dawn, and amazingly that’s what happened. We set off on a trail that supposedly takes 90mins and ran for the first 15 minutes, the excitement getting the better of us. A few members of the group trailed off, but myself, Cora and 2 Aussies pressed on. After 25 minutes of non-stop running, continuously looking over or shoulder we reached an almost vertical 100 steps. Everyone struggled up these and it was another 5 minutes uphill until we reached the Sun Gate. Upon passing the stone pillars we got our first glimpse of Machu Picchu in the morning sun. Wow!

Cora and I after reaching the Sun Gate

Cora and I were the 3^rd and 4^th people there and it was a good 5 minutes before any other groups arrived. For those 5 minutes it was like we had Machu Picchu to ourselves, we took some photos and stood in awe of what we were looking at. We had walked for 4 days, covering 46km, just to see this and it didn't disappoint. No pictures I’d ever seen of the place could do the view from here any justice.

When the rest of the group arrived, we started the gentle walk down to Machu Picchu itself. We looked disapprovingly at all the “day trippers” in their clean clothes, looking fresh. They hadn't gone through what we had to get to this point! Marco (our guide) gave us a whirlwind tour of the ruins, which are just enormous. Then we were left to our own devices to wander the narrow lanes and climb the many steps, to get to see it from as many angles as possible.

Cora and I were so tired that we could only manage a couple of hours, and afterwards we made our way towards Agua Calientes, which is the small tourist town at the bottom of the mountain. Starving (up at 3am!) we treated ourselves to a nice lunch and coffee and then boarded the train back to Cusco. The train was sheer luxury after 4 days of camping, and the trip was quick. We said goodbye to our tour group in the Plaza de Armas in Cusco and made our way back to EcoPackers for a well deserved hot shower and a deep long sleep. What an amazing few days we’d had, truly unforgettable!

Lima, Arequipa and the Colca Canyon

Danger, danger

On the baggage carousel in Lima there was a drug dog sniffing around the bags being spewed out one by one. No worries here, we’re not drug smugglers! However another dog was doing the rounds of everyone’s hand luggage, and unfortunately he took quite an interest in mine. I realised quickly I had two apples in there and these harmless manzanas earned me a telling off from customs (and earned a treat for Buffy the dog, little rascal!) Apples confiscated we set off for our hostel.

Main square

Lima is a megacity of about 8 million people, with the usual overcrowding and pollution problems that result. The entire time we were there the sky was a milky white colour, with no hope of any sunlight piercing through, so everything looked a little dull and gloomy. We stayed in Miraflores, a fairly upmarket area, with a pretty cool mall built into a cliffside.

The city centre is crazy and congested and we spent a few hours exploring and ate in Chinatown. The main archaeological site worth seeing is called Huaca Pucllana, a massive pre Inca structure which has only been excavated in recent years. Before this the locals jumped motorbikes over it!

Old meets new

The final attraction we visited was a park of dancing fountains (a bona fide Guinness world record!) which was hilarious and pretty entertaining. We caught a night bus out of Lima for Arequipa after two nights and it was enough time to spend there I think.

The bus was fantastically comfortable (1^st class!), but having seats right in front of the window is terrifying because you can see all the crazy moves the driver is taking! Sleeping was no problem and when we woke up the scenery rushing past was varied and sometimes breathtaking. Vast swathes of pacific coast with crashing waves, dusty little one street towns to cater for the passing trucks and once we turned towards the mountains, terrain of greyish earth with some scattered low scrub and nothing else.

I've seen this pose before somewhere...

Arequipa is beautiful city with lots of tourists and it was easy to book a trip into the Colca canyon for the next day. The canyon claims to be the deepest in the world, and there are communities that still maintain a traditional way of life in its depths.

The trip began at 3am with a 3hour bus ride. After a substantial breakfast (quinoa juice, that’s a new one!) we carried on to Cruz del Condor. From this vantage point there is an amazing vista of condors swopping and gliding down into the valley, totally mesmerising to watch.

Spot the birdie...

Wobbly knees

There he goes again!

We began to hike down into the canyon with the most wonderful scenery rising around us. The descent was more than 1500m, and by the end my knees were shaking with the strain.

Once we were in the depths we were shown our basic accommodation (a shed with a bed) and had some much needed lunch, all in the shadow of the massive canyon above.

Later on there were sounds of a bit of a ruckus from behind the cabins and it turned out it was the birthday of one of the owners and they were having a party. They invited us to join in and offered us some of the homemade brew that everyone was slugging. The drink is called chicha and is brewed from maize in a large earthenware pot. It smells and tastes like old stale larger! But of course it would have been terrible to refuse. The party continued with dancing (and attempts at groping by the older men who seemed to not notice that we were two couples!), and everyone was friendly even with the language divide (them Quechua and a little Spanish, us English and a little Spanish). 

I'll tell me ma when I go home...

A river runs though it 

The next day was a lot less strenuous with a hike to the oasis that lies on the other side of the canyon. On the way we passed through a small village with a school and a little plaza. It’s quite amazing that everything that comes into the canyon is carried by man or mule and it’s hard to imagine what it’s like to live down there. 

The oasis was green and pretty and after lunch everyone went straight for the cold and refreshing pool! The water runs down from the snow at the top of the mountains around the canyon.

Later on there was a viciously competitive game of volleyball between all the guides, guests and those who run the cabins. I certainly don’t think I have inherited my Polish side of the family’s talent! As per usual Damien took to it instantly, so that somewhat atoned for my mistakes! After a few games of cards the electricity was extinguished and we went to our little cabins with a candle for light.

Time to play!

With the lights gone, we looked up and saw the most amazing night sky. It just seemed alive with stars, I have never seen anything like that before and can’t imagine I ever will. With starry eyes we tried to get to sleep in preparation for the 5am ascent the next day.

Waking up at crazy am we set off, a little trail of six flashlights up the mountain. The hike got harder and harder as the sun began to rise and once we reached the top I was utterly shattered. Thankfully a nice breakfast awaited us and the rest of the day involved visiting some little villages and soothing sore muscles in a nearby local hot springs. We arrived back to Arequipa in the early evening. Tomorrow onto Cusco and the long anticipated Inca trail!

A very tired group finally out of the canyon!